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For motors and rotors not found on this Web page, I would need you to send a digital picture of the item using both top and bottom views.   Please remember that each motor or rotor in the body of this Web page have clickable links to their individual picture.

Any rebuilt Telechron "B" rotor can have any shaft you'd need.  Once I open up a "B" rotor I can install any configuration of shaft or pinion.

Here is a Web page with some of the steps illustrated with pictures.   Repair Illustration

GE, Herschede, Revere, & Telechron Electric Rotor, Motor and Other Motor Repair and Service Charges.

For a Web page listing of all Telechron Rotors by their M # please see:

http://www.atmosman.com/m-rotor.html

Copyright © 1995-2016 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic

Mike's Clock Clinic
1600 Maryland Avenue
Myrtle Point, OR 97458-1508

Phone: 541-559-1090, or 877-286-6762 (Toll Free)

E-mail address: Mike@atmos-man.com
MCC's Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com

Index of Motor and Rotor & Resources by Category:

Virtually every motor and rotor is no longer in production and because of the rarity of these items, all prices are firm and there is no trade discount of any kind.

I don't list or sell any 50 cycle rotors.

All motors, rotors, and coils carry a 2-year warranty.   If failure occurs during the warranty period the item will be replaced for free but you would be responsible for the shipping costs to Mike's Clock Clinic.

If, for any reason, I cannot rebuild your motor/rotor or I cannot salvage an exact substitute, then I'll return your motor/rotor at no charge what-so-ever, unless it was expedited service.

My turnaround is 4 to 5 months and expedited service adds $100.00 and if you choose expedite and I cannot return a working motor then the $100.00 is still due.  If after the normal waiting period the motor still is not satisfactory then it is returned at no charge.  Expedited service takes about 3 weeks.

Most rebuilt (overhauled) original motors and rotors sell for between $115.00 and $165.00.   The same holds true for a N.O.S. (New Old Stock) which means an old but unused rotor/motor and for used but working.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will jump from $15.00 to $100.00 with everything else staying the same.   The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement.  Labor adds $50.00 and return shipping adds $50.00, and I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long.

I cannot guarantee that the motor/rotor replacement will fix you clock's problem 100% of the time, simply because the clock movement (mechanism) may need work as well.

Motors are complete units with wires to be connected to an electrical power source.  Rotors are units that require another part, usually a coil, in order to generate the electro magnetic field which all electric "drives" need.  Another way to look at it is that motors can be separately run outside the movement and rotors cannot.

All rebuilt's from whatever source, will have some noise.  Rebuilt's will be significantly quieter but all will carry some noise.

Drilling holes was often done by the amateur in order to extend the life of the rotor.  These holes were used in order to add oil to the rotor and at one time oil may have helped but that does nothing for accumulated dirt and old coagulated oil and nothing for plate and wheel wear.

I use synthetic grease and synthetic oil so in theory there should never be a need for more oil.

Original coils run $115.00 and this includes shipping.  I no longer have a source for newly manufactured coils, so when my stock is gone it is gone.

Many past repair people just grabbed any coil that they could get there hands on and for longer life of the clock and rotor, you should seriously consider replacing the coil if yours is not the proper wattage.

Please see this link for coil information.   Coil Information

You MUST add $15.00 to each order (Canada is $35.00) to include return shipping by U.S. Priority Mail.

Some have indicated to me a fear of the clock shorting out or becoming a fire hazard. 3 If that's the case then purchase a power strip and only plug the clock into it.  This way you have a fuse to stop an overload before it feeds back into your household or office wiring.  Honestly, I have never heard of an electric clock causing a fire but putting in a power strip may ease some fears.

Telechron Rotors

All my Telechron rotors are either nickel or copper and NOT aluminum.  The exception is the "S" rotor which has always been aluminum.  The aluminum rotors were cheapened versions of the nickel or copper rotors.  GE, who always had a stake in Telechron, finally purchased it outright in the 70's and that's when the aluminum rotors appeared.

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Rebuilt Telechron Aluminum Rotors

The aluminum "B-13" rotor can be rebuilt.   The process takes about 4 to 5 days and the cost on either is $150.00 plus $15.00 priority mail (Canada is $35.00), which brings your total cost to $165.00.  Typically aluminum rotors have a M # of 3300 or higher.  If you do not have a rotor to send, then add $50.00 for a total of $215.00.  I have some in stock and that is why the turn around is faster for the "B-13's".

The "H" rotor is far too fragile for rebuilding and I substitute a copper and nickel "H" rotor and that is why the cost is $150.00 total if you send an aluminum "H" rotor.

The aluminum "H" rotor is the standard 4 to 5 months turn around.

The one disadvantage of an aluminum cased rotor is that Telechron used fiber board plates and then coated them (dipped) in phenolic resin whereas the pre-aluminum rotors used copper plates.  Three of the seven wheels, in the "B" rotor, are also phenolic resin and that material was used to reduce noise of the wheels meshing but actually the plates used increased the overall noise of the rotor.  Phenolic plates will never last as long as copper and the material was used to reduce overall production costs but should last for years.  It is because of these plates that the noise level of any rebuilt aluminum rotor will be greater than the copper plates of original rotors.   So I strongly suggest you do NOT use an aluminum rotor for clocks located in your sleeping area.

All aluminum "B" and "H" rotors are replacement rotors.   Meaning that they were manufactured after your clock was made in order to save production costs on replacements.

Most of the parts were identical to the rotor they replaced (the "B-3") but the case was aluminum instead of nickel and the plates were pressed wood dipped in phenolic resin, instead of copper.

If the movement still has the rotor plate, a small plate covering then end of the rotor and held on with the 2 mounting machine screws that pass through the plate, you will see "Mod" for model. This # almost always starts with 59 then followed by the # of the original rotor. I.E. 59M2377.

For an extra $75.00, I can replace your aluminum cased "B-13" rotor with an older nickel cased "B-3" rotor.   The "B-3" has copper plates and will generally last 2 to 4 times longer then their aluminum counter parts ($325.00 total).

B-3-rotor rebuilding $150.00
Taking a "B-3" from inventory $75.00
Labor $50.00
Shipping via UPS ground $50.00
Total $325.00

I'll not ship any rotor or motor until I am paid.   Once the old rotor is received, I then rebuild the rotor and test and it generally takes about 4 to 5 months, then it is shipped and will carry a 2-year warranty, once payment is received.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will jump from $15.00 to $100.00 with everything else staying the same.  The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement ($250.00 total).

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A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron B Rotors

Installing the Telechron "B" rotor is a fairly straight forward job.  There are two large, usually brass, screws which hold the entire "motor".   The motor consists of the rotor, field, and coil.  The only "catch" is that there is a pinion gear screwed onto the flat portion on the shaft of the rotor.   This must be removed before you can remove the "motor".   Most times the entire movement must be completely removed from the case in order to access this pinion.  Sometimes it is a little tough in locating and loosing this screw because the clock may have stopped with the flat portion of the rotor's shaft facing away from your access point.  You need to loosen this screw and then the pinion will slide off and this can happen when you remove the "motor".

A VERY important note is that the pinion MUST be placed back in the same position and the same orientation on the rebuilt rotor as it was on the dead rotor.   This installation can usually only be done once the rebuilt rotor and the rest of the "motor" is installed in the clock's movement.

There is a brass collar at the point where the shaft protrudes from the rotor.   This collar must be seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor shaft enters the clock movement.   This collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

The word "TOP" is located on the rotor and that word should be facing straight up so that the rotor can self lubricate.   In other words, the word "TOP" should be facing your ceiling.   If you do not install the rotor correctly, it will shorten its life significantly.

Another area of caution is the coil.  The coil has two very fine wires connecting to the larger wires, which eventually connect to the power source.   These break very easily and please DON'T try to pull the motor away from the movement because this may break the wires on the coil.  And any extra or rough handling of the coil can and will result in wire breakage.   So please handle the "motor" with great care.

To determine whether or not you need a coil, you can take a Multimeter or Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $10.00 at any hardware store, and with no current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading.   Just about any reading is a good one and if you can see the coil #, that represents the Ohm reading so if your coil is a # 60 coil then you should get about 60 or 600 ohms depending on the setting of the meter.

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A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron S Rotors

Installing the Telechron "S" rotor is a fairly straight forward job.  There are two large, usually brass, screws which hold the entire "motor".   The motor consists of the rotor, field, and coil.  The only catch is that the rotor MUST be placed back in the same position and the same orientation on the NOS rotor as it was on the dead rotor.  So please be sure to mark the position of the old rotor so that you have a reference point because both the running of the clock or timer and position of the rotor depends on the NOS rotor being placed in exactly as the old rotor.

There is a brass collar at the point where the gear protrudes from the rotor.   This collar must be seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor gear enters the clock movement.  This collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

Another problem is that the "S" rotor is usually held by the field very tightly.   Sometimes I have to use a flat screwdriver in order to remove the old rotor.   Since the casing of the rotor is made of aluminum, installing can be difficult because your cannot use any type of  pliers to force the rotor into the field because this might damage the NOS rotor.

I generally install the "S" by hand using only finger pressure.  I have not tried this but I suppose you can use a press or large flat surface vise and force the rotor into the field.   Just be sure that you use the minimum force to install the rotor because of potential damage to the rotor.

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Telechron "F" Rotors  (M-519) &  (M-667) 


I no longer work on "F" Telechron rotors

The type "F" rotor looks like a viewer you look through at the top of a building or scenic area.  There are two screw holders built right into the steel cast, and this rotor generally turns at the rate of 3.6 R.P.M.

All "F" rotors cost $200.00 plus $10.00 priority mail (Canada is $35.00) and have a 2-year warranty, which brings your total cost to $210.00 assuming you send the old rotor at time of payment.

I must have the old rotor or add $100.00.  Aluminum rotors will NOT qualify as an exchange.  Typically aluminum rotors have a M # of 3300 or higher.  My turn around time is about 4 to 5 months.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will jump from $10.00 to $80.00 with everything else staying the same.  The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement ($280.00 total).

I'll not ship the rotor/motor until I received payment.  I ONLY accept money orders, certified checks, or company checks for payment but repeat customers may use personal checks.  Normally shipping takes place one week or so after I receive payment and thanks !

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Synchron Motors Hansen Corporation and American Time and Single

Hansen Corporation carries some of the Synchron motors.  As does American Time and Single  &   Timesavers .

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Seth Thomas clocks with Sangamo Motors

.

Dennis Kaye has Sangamo's Motors

SORRY No Sangamo's are available as of 01/04/06

A special note on the Seth Thomas clocks that used Sangamo motors. I have these motors in stock but please be aware that my experience indicates that these clocks ran way pass the "normal" amount of time as compared to other electrics.   Therefore, it is very likely that this clock has bearing plate wear and gear pivot wear because of the unusually long running time.

I mention this because the motor I'll be sending to you will be in great working order but, it may not solve your problem and most likely the movement needs a complete overhaul because of these specific wear problems.

All Sangamo motors cost $150.00 plus $10.00 priority mail (Canada is $35.00) and have a 2-year warranty, which brings your total cost to $160.00 assuming you send the old motor at time of payment.

I must have the old motor or add $50.00 to each option.  Having your specific motor rebuilt my turn time becomes around 4 months.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will jump from $10.00 to $80.00 with everything else staying the same.  The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement.

If a Sangamo motor is purchased and it does not solve your clock's problems there will be $30.00 "restocking" fee, and unless I get the exact motor I sent to you initially, there will be no refund at all.   The motor will be marked for identification purposes.

Sorry for all that but unless the movement is sound on any electric clock, you are wasting both my time and your time.

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Payments.


I would like payment by money order, certified check, personal check, business check, or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take credit cards. I do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and Square take 3%. I only take credit cards if you are in the USA or Canada.

The 3% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card.

With Pay Pal you can pay me directly using "friends and family" where you absorb all fees and I'm paid the full amount. There would be nothing added amount to the final fill if you absorb all fees. Here you log on to Pay Pal and send me the full amount of my bill, so there is no E-voice coming from me with this method and you will be charged all Pay Pal fees on top of my final bill.

With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail address. Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me.

You do have to be a member of Pay Pal in order to issue a payment but you may use Square without any membership or additional Square fees but the 3% will be added to your total bill as with Pay Pal.

With Square, I can also take the credit card information which includes the number, expiration date and the last 3 or 4 #'s of the security code from the back of the card BUT that adds 3.5% to the final bill. I'd prefer to avoid this method but it is an option.

All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your credit card.

If you already have a Pay Pal account and want to see my verification at Pay Pal, then see:

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Who Does the Work?

It should be known that ALL work is done in house
and by me personally.  The exception is fabricating a
new replacement part, which is very rare.

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What if the clock needs more service?

Sometimes the electric clock needs to be overhauled even thought all the electrical parts are replaced.

Electric clocks and especially chiming electrics, will wear out and rebuilt rotor or not they will not run or run accurately.   One quick check it to grab the center of the minute hand with your fingers and see if it wobbles.  Meaning that there should be a very slight amount of "up, down, or side to side" play.  If the "play" is greater than a mm or so then there is a good chance the movement will have to be rebuilt in order for the clock to run properly.

If that's the case then please see:

Electric Overhaul Fees page

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A service from, E-mail address: Mike@atmos-man.com Mike Murray

Founder of Clocksmiths

A specialist in Atmos and 400-day clock repair.

Also, I overhaul most plug in electric clocks. In continuous service since 04/01/1982.

Mike's Clock Clinic   Memberships: Clocksmiths & NAWCC
1600 Maryland Avenue
Myrtle Point, OR 97458-1508

Phone: 541-559-1090, or 877-286-6762

My Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/

Main FTP site is located at http://www.home.earthlink.net/~atmosman/earthftp.html


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Copyright © 1995-2016 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic
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Created in December of 1995 and last updated January 02, 2016.